Why Checks Still Reign in Kanjivaram Sarees
In the ever-evolving world of sarees, where motifs shift and palettes change with every season, one design has quietly held its ground for centuries—checks, or as we call them in Tamil, kattam. Whether large and bold or fine and subtle, kattam patterns are a timeless part of Tamil Nadu’s textile heritage, especially in the world of Kanjivaram silk.
At Hayagrivas, we’ve seen generations of women drape checked Kanjivarams with grace—across poojas, weddings, reunions, and everyday rituals. But what makes these seemingly simple grids so enduring?
Kattam: More Than a Pattern
The word kattam literally means “a defined space.” In many ways, it reflects the idea of order, symmetry, and balance. Much like the padi kolam drawn daily at the thresholds of South Indian homes, or the astrological charts drawn by priests, these grids carry cultural meaning. They represent protection, structure, and even sacred geometry.
In Kanjivarams, this symbolic form takes on colour, texture, and shimmer—woven in zari and silk with astonishing precision.
The Many Faces of Checks
Over the years, weavers in Tamil Nadu have explored checks in countless ways. Each variant tells a different story and has its own charm:
Puliyam-Kottai Kattam
Inspired by the size of tamarind seeds, these checks are about an inch wide. Usually woven in two-toned colour combinations, they’re a nod to everyday elegance and cultural nostalgia. The tamarind seed even has connections to traditional board games like Pallankuzhi, making this design deeply rooted in local life.
Koorai Kattam
Bright and vibrant, Koorai kattams were originally seen in coarse cotton sarees from Koorainadu, near Tanjore. Their vivid contrast patterns made them a bridal staple and have since influenced Kanjivaram designs too.
Muthu Kattam
This "pearl check" design features small white squares resembling pearls, usually against deep, rich body colours. The result? A saree that glows with quiet sophistication.
Kasa-Kasa Kattam
Named after poppy seeds (kasa-kasa in Tamil), this design uses the tiniest of checks—so fine, they’re best appreciated when the saree is worn. It’s the ultimate example of understated craftsmanship.
While not checks in the traditional sense, vaira oosi (diamond needle) stripes are often paired with checked designs. These ultra-fine zari lines run parallel across the saree, adding a shimmering threadwork that elevates any drape.
Kottadi
This design features single-line checks with a fine play of metallic threads and colours. A classic Tamil pattern, kottadi is perfect for those who appreciate delicate detailing.
Paimadi Checks
Borrowing from the weave patterns of traditional South Indian basketry, Paimadi checks use criss-cross motifs that feel rustic yet refined.
Checks in Kanjivaram: A Weaver’s Canvas
The beauty of a Kanjivaram lies in its structure: the body, the border, and the pallu. With checks, this triptych layout becomes even more harmonious. Whether it’s a “muppagam” (three-part layout) or “arai pagam” (split in half), the grid-like structure of kattam patterns sits beautifully within the architectural logic of the saree.
Weavers manipulate colour, thread thickness, zari placement, and even motifs within each square—sometimes adding malli moggu (jasmine bud), maanga (mango), or iruthalaipakshi (double-headed eagle) into the checks themselves.
From Ritual to Runway
Today’s kattam sarees are not limited to traditional wear. Brides opt for bold, large checks in shades like emerald and magenta, while younger women pair finer checks with designer blouses for office parties or festive brunches.
At Hayagrivas, we’ve even reimagined kattam in hues like palum pazhamum—a red, green, and yellow combo made famous by the 1961 Tamil film of the same name—and in more muted tones like grey with silver zari or peacock blue with antique gold.
Why They Still Reign
The continued love for checks comes down to one thing: balance. A kattam saree offers the best of both worlds—it is traditional, yet versatile; detailed, yet clean. It frames the wearer gracefully, lending structure and rhythm to the drape.
For the weaver, it’s a canvas of infinite possibilities. For the wearer, it’s a statement of quiet strength.
Final Thoughts
In every era, there’s a design that stays relevant—not because it shouts, but because it speaks to something deeper. Kattam is one of those. It’s not just a pattern. It’s a philosophy of balance, geometry, and grace.
At Hayagrivas, we celebrate this legacy with every checked saree that leaves our loom—woven with care, colour, and cultural memory.